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During WWI, when pilots rode in open cockpits, pilots were quick to wear
whatever they could find that was warm. There were very few
'Service Issued' articles issued to pilots and their crews. There
was nothing such as a bomber jacket or flight jacket at that time.
What was issued to them besides the planes themselves was clearly
functional, but often these garments fell far short in practicality and
warmth. While serving in France and Belgium, the Royal
Flying Corps pilots had already begun wearing long leather bomber
jackets in 1915, and the trend caught on. The US Army
established the Aviation Clothing Board in September 1917 and began
distributing heavy duty leather flight bomber jackets; with high wrap
around collars, zipper closures with wind flaps, snug cuffs and waits,
and some fringed and lined with fur. Thus, the American flight bomber
jacket was born.
Years before WWII, the U.S. Air Corp was issued the 'Type A2 Bomber
Jacket', Standard Issue on May 9, 1931. The U.S. Navy
followed later with the 'Type the M-445 Flight Jacket' for Pilots
of the Navy and Marine Corps ( later to be called the G1 during the war
). The issues were made of
Seal Skin Leather and a functional cotton lining. However,
as the Air Corp gained popularity and enlisted ranks swelled, the sealskin
was deemed unpractical to fill such large orders. The
then Department of War went to making the Type A2 Bomber Jacket out of
Horsehide, which at that time was plentiful in the United States Leather
Tanning Markets. Today, the A2 and G1 are made to Department
of Defense Standards for Military Issue using only Goatskin and Cowhide
Leather.
The Type A2 was a waist length leather jacket that featured two front
patch pockets toward the bottom, a stretch webbing attached to the
bottom of the jacket and at the end of the sleeves to close out the air,
shoulder epaulets, and nothing else. It was a real plain
Jane intended to look just good enough for the Generals, and be barely
functional for the wearer. However, at that time, there were
several different types of styles for use within the U.S. Army and the
Type A2 Bomber Jacket made of Leather added a wonderful distinction to
the U.S. Air Corp.
The Type G1 was somewhat different than the Type A2. Its body was
more form fitted with a longer waisted Webbing at the bottom and a
Mouton Collar. Where the A2 used metal snaps on the front
patch pockets, the G1 used buttons. The Type G1 also
featured a By-Swing Back for easier arm movement, or so thought the U.S.
Navy Department.
Leslie Irvin first designed and manufactured the Classic Sheepskin
Flying Jacket. In 1926 he set up a manufacturing company in
the United Kingdom, and became the main supplier of flying flight
jackets to the Royal Air Force during most of the Second World
War. However the demand during the early years of the
war was so great that the Irvin company engaged sub-contractors, which
explains the slight variations of design and color, which can be seen in
early production Irvin flying flight jackets.
As aircraft became more advanced, altitudes got
higher, speeds got faster, and temperatures got colder, warmer clothing
for air crews was needed. Most heavy bombing raids in Europe during the
Second World War took place from altitudes at least 25,000 ft, where it
could reach as cold as minus 50 degrees Celsius.
Aircraft were not insulated and so the cockpits would get just as cold.
Heavy flight jackets were essential. A2's were alright, but
soon, the advent and need for Shearling was apparent. Then
came the B-Series Synthetic Jackets and the heated flight suites.
Still, two most historical and well-known American
Flight Jackets are the A-2 and the G-1. Although General
“Hap” Arnold cancelled the original A-2 after twelve years because
he wanted “something better”, the A-2 remains to be the most
recognizable and sought after American flight jacket. The G-1Flight
Jacket, designed
by the US Navy to parallel the Air Corps’ A-2, lasted until 1978,
where Congress forced its cancellation because its tremendous popularity
was overwhelming the Navy’s supply
system. However,
because of its popularity, the Navy G1 Flight Jacket made its military comeback as an
'Department of Defense, Naval Department Official Military Issued Jacket' during Desert Storm and is still issued to pilots and
Naval and Marine Officers today.
Stylish flight jackets, however, are not limited to just the Type A-2
and Type G-1. Shearling Flight Jackets, originally lined
with fur, are recognized for being some of the warmest jackets and coats
on the planet. Even when the fur was sometimes
replaced with wool, this flight jacket was warm enough to keep Lt. J. A.
MacReady warm when he set a world record in April 1921, reaching an
altitude of 40,000 feet in his open cockpit airplane. Styles
of Shearling Flight Jackets range from the B-3, the “Bomber Flight Jacket”
to the Navy’s own Shearling Flight jacket ( basically the
same jacket but with different designation ), and the ANJ-4
Shearling worn by many B-17 and B-24 Pilots. The ANJ-4
was a copy of the B3, only with outside Patch Pockets worked into the
design. The ANJ-4 is pictured mostly on Officer
Pilots, so it may have been only issued to Officers at first during its
early use. Still, the old standby leather
jackets were fast growing out of favor as an item to wear in the upper
altitudes. The newer, warmer, and lighter synthetic bomber
and flight jackets were gaining their own popularity among the flyers.
The synthetic B-Series
Bomber Jackets first gained esteem after Gen. Hap Arnold rejected the
A-2. The B-10 was the first of
the non-leather jackets to become popular with the air crews are
featured in many war photos of the period. The B10 Issued Jacket
was considered far lighter and much warmer than the Type A2 Issued
Leather Jacket which came with just a thin lining that did not offer the
wearer much warm at high altitude. The B-15 was issued in
late 1944 and soon replaced the B10 as the issued jacket. Styles
range from the cotton twill B-series and the standardized flight jacket
of the Navy, the CWU-series.
Both
synthetic and shearling flight jackets are both worn and collected by
WWII buffs today, but many do not contain the social status as the A-2, the
G-1, or the Shearling B3.
Sometime
around March of 1944, some bomber crews dropped the A2 and B3 Leather
Jackets in favor of the newly issued heated flight suites, principally
the F2 heated Flight Suit and the later upgraded F3 version
. Everything about this suite had a plug-in, except for the rubberized
May-West, a neck and chest fitted floatation B2, B3, or B-4 Life
Vest. It was lighter, easier to move in, and much
warmer.
During
1943 to 1945, there are lots of military and personal photographs that
show particular air crews wearing a wide plethora of flight gear and
different jackets. Officers of one crew might be
wearing an A2 or ANJ-4 jacket while several other lower ranks might be
wearing an A4 Flight suit with a B-10 or B15 Jacket over it.
Two other crew members may have on a B3 shearling. The
assortment of jackets worn on any one mission by different crew members
is astonishing and it seems that keeping warm was a very personal thing
for each crew member.
The
A2 Bomber Jacket, the G1 Flight Jacket, and the B3 Shearling Bomber
Jacket, not only were these three flight jackets useful to the serving
men who wore them, but in their popularity became symbols of Honor,
Legend, Adventure, and Style. Hollywood movies
are filled with them, making these once specialized flight jackets
Collector and Fashion items. The Leather Fashion Market
still loves their simplistic and rugged looks as does the consumer
buying public. These three jackets styles have become synonymous
within the men's leather market as the 'little black dress' has become
for the women's dress market. General Arnold not
withstanding, the Type-A2
Bomber Jacket is still issued to Pilots in the U.S. Air Force
today. So is the G1 Flight Jacket for the U.S. Navy &
Marines. Today, they are made of Goatskin and
American Cowhide.
Most modern jacket styles today have their start with these favorite
military styles. Even the original issued B-10 and B-15
Bomber Jackets have
provided the base designs for most nylon and cotton blend jacket styles
found on the market today at your favorite stores. Even many of
today's parkas and trench coats have a military ancestor in their style
linage.
Still, who
ever wears a bomber or flight jacket creates a new and affirmative
persona for themselves. This can be both a rugged and
adventurous look, or a legendary and honorable bearing. No mater
which bomber or flight jacket you wear, it all boils down to how people
will see you in it. When a man is seen wearing a good
leather bomber jacket, it conveys a unique esteem, and those looking on
cannot help but think to themselves, "there walks a man".
Leather
Jacket Repair & Restoration
Often
folks contact us concerning an older leather jacket that is a treasured
or prized heirloom, something Dad wore in the Service, or just a special
Leather Jacket they purchased years back and is now showing serious
wear. Although we do not do perform such repairs or
restorations, we recommend Willow Evans for all repairs and restorations
of leather jackets. Willow does meticulous work,
---repairing webbing, zippers, collars, cuffs, snaps, and even difficult
leather restoration. Even old dried out Leather can actually
be restore to its original state or close to it. So, if you do
have an aged or damaged jacket, American Mystique directs you to Willow
Evans, a full Tailor specializing in the repair and restoration of
damaged Leather Jackets, be they Bomber or Flight Jackets, or even
prized Motorcycle Jackets and Vests .
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Contact
Willow Evans at:
Tel: (615) 428-1391
Willow Rose Evans
110 South Central Ave
Centerville,
TN 37033
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Please feel free to contact us about your experience with Willow.
Please
note that Willow Evans is independent from American Mystique and is not
affiliated with American Mystique.
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